Wednesday, 28 March 2012

Denim Tips 3 - Pockets & Waist

Hot Patterns Boyfriend Jeans

Changes to cutting out of the pockets and waistband.

Home made jeans are great because you can use a quilters cotton or any thing else that takes your fancy for the pockets, fly shield and waistband facing so that they look good from the inside. It also adds a personal touch and colour, to say nothing of uniqueness.

Taylor of TaylorTailor made his wife a pair of jeans and look what he chose for pocket linings. His wife is a great home baker so what better way to personalise a pair of jeans!

I had an old bit of navy/white flowery cotton kicking about so I used this. Next time I'm going for psychedelic colour and pattern!

To cut the waistbands, cut left and right with the denim right side up and your lining wrong side up.
The right hand side is not long enough to catch the fly shield when attaching it so cut this piece 2" longer now - you can always trim off later. I only noticed this flaw after the jeans were practically completed. Better to get the fix now.

 The front pockets.
Below are the two pieces that make up the front pocket. The top piece is cut in denim while the bottom piece is cut in lining or cotton for the inside pocket. Now, that joining seam that you see below is probably the hardest seam in the world to sew well - a perfect curve - it's difficult even pinning the pieces together when they are this shape - an exaggerated princess seam! Also, it means there would be a raw seam on the inside of the jeans.
So here's my solution to easier sewing and a better finish.

Pin the pocket lining piece onto the cotton and then match up the vertical and horizontal edges of the pocket facing (1/4 circle piece). Cut as one.

 Instead of having the pocket lining looking like the paper pattern shape you have a shape like that on the right. One other thing, these pockets are not too deep, so you may want to add an extra 1" or so. Do this in the middle of the pocket lining.

Now cut the pocket facing (1/4 circle bit) in your denim. I didn't remove the seam allowance, just cut off the notch. You can finish the curved edge with a zig-zag or overlock stitch now. Position the facings on the WRONG side of the linings, matching the vertical and horizontal edges again. This means that when you fold the pocket linings up the printed side of the cotton is shown on the inside of the jeans and not hidden inside the pocket.
Stich the now flat pieces together along the curved edge of the facing. I did a straight stitch to fix the facings in place, then I zig-zagged for extra strength and to stop fraying.

Now you have smooth pockets on the inside of your jeans and an easy time sewing.

Hope this helps and thanks for reading. Ruth

Next time - the fly zip.


  1. I love contrasting fabric for the waistband lining and the pockets - and the cupcake design is great.

    am watching with interest as these develop.

  2. I love watching other people work too.

  3. This is really cool, love watching it develop. :)